ALASKA TRIP, PART 7

When we left Dawson City on Tuesday, June 19, we boarded the free ferry, the George Black, which carries passengers and vehicles from Dawson City across the Yukon River to the beginning of the Top of the World Highway. It took about two hours for all three rigs to make it across the river as the ferry is quite small and only holds a few vehicles each trip.

Our rig on the ferry:











The Top of the World Highway had some fantastic views, but the road was in terrible shape -- we averaged only about 25 miles per hour on this stretch of highway.

One view from the Top of the World Highway:











Two weeks after leaving Dawson Creek, B.C., we finally made it to Alaska! We crossed over the border at the United States' northern-most border port, Poker Creek, Alaska, population 2.

Border crossing:

Entering into Alaska!











We totaled only 96 miles today, stopping at the Walker Fork BLM Campground about 20 miles north of Chicken, Alaska. It took us four or five hours to drive that 96 miles, not counting the time it took to cross the Yukon River on the ferry.

The next day, we drove into Chicken, Alaska for breakfast. Chicken got its name because the early settlers wanted to name their camp Ptarmigan, but didn't know how to spell it and settled instead for Chicken, the common name in the North for ptarmigan. Chicken is the home of the late Ann Purdy, whose book, Tisha, was based on her experiences as a young schoolteacher in the Bush.

While having breakfast, the waitress (owner?) was complaining about how hot it was, so Earl went back to the rig to get one of our spare fans. She was so grateful, that we got free breakfasts and got to go next door and pick out a T-shirt!

We found that the Taylor Highway, a gravel road which we had been dreading because everything we'd read made it sound like a horrible, dangerous road, was actually in much better shape than was the Top of the World Highway. In fact, the road from Chicken south to Tetlin Junction, was in better shape than a lot of the paved roads we've been on -- even in the lower 48!

We caught our first sight of the Alaska Range today -- the range that includes Mt. McKinley (Denali), although it cannot be seen from this side.

Alaska Range from the Taylor Highway:











We drove 96 miles to the Sourdough Campground in Tok, Alaska. Before we settled into our site, we took our rig over to the wash area and sprayed the worst of the dirt and grime off. After we'd set up, Bill, Gisela, and I drove into Tok to pick up our mail.

On Thursday, June 21, we drove 203 miles to Riverview RV Park in North Pole, Alaska, a suburb of Fairbanks. On our way to North Pole, we stopped in Delta Junction, the official end of the Alaska Highway -- the road from Delta Junction to Fairbanks is called the Richardson Highway.

Official end of the Alaska Highway:











While in North Pole, we cleaned the inside of our rig from all the dust we'd accumulated on the Top of the World and Taylor Highways. One day, we took a four hour narrated cruise down the Chena and Tanana Rivers on the stern wheeler, Discovery III.

Stern wheeler, Discovery III











The first part of the trip is down the Chena River whose banks are lined with old homesteads, brand new houses, and bush planes. Some of the "houses" on the Chena were quaint -- like this small stern wheeler which had been made over into a home:












The boat made a stop at the river front home of Susan Butcher, the first woman to win the Iditarod -- and she won it four times! While she's no longer racing, she still trains and breeds sled dogs. [Note: Susan Butcher has since died, of cancer I believe.]

Susan Butcher:

Some of Susan's dogs:











We also saw some reindeer. Did you know that reindeer and caribou are the same animal? Reindeer are domesticated and caribou are wild. If you don't believe it, look up the Latin name for both animals and you'll find that, in both cases, it's the same -- Rangifer tarandus.

Rangifer tarandus:











We were able to see the smoke from the fires that have been raging around Nenana, about 58 miles southwest of Fairbanks.

Smoke from the Nenana fires:











At the confluence of the Chena and Tanana Rivers, you can see the difference between a river made of snow melt waters (Chena) and one made of glacial melt waters (Tanana). The glacial melt waters contain a lot of glacial "flour," making the water grey in color.

Confluence of the Chena and Tanana Rivers:











One of the highlights of the trip was a stop at the Old Chena Indian Village where we went ashore for a guided tour with two young Alaskan Native women. They told how their ancestors hunted, fished, sewed clothing and built shelters. Before leaving, we were treated to a dog mushing demonstration.

Chena Village:

Dog mushing demonstration:











One of our guides modeling a fur parka:

Iris growing wild around Fairbanks:

ALASKA TRIP, PART 6

On Saturday, we drove 177 miles to Bonanza Gold RV Park in Dawson City, Yukon. We stopped in Pelly Crossing so Bill and Kirk could fill up with diesel and I made a call to the RV park to make reservations.


Overlooking the Pelly River and Pelly Crossing:











We stopped and ate lunch at Gravel Lake and then stopped to see Tintina Trench. According to The Milepost, this geologic feature, which extends hundreds of miles across Yukon and Alaska, is the largest fault in North America and one of two major bird migration corridors in Yukon.

Tintina Trench and Ogilvie Mountains:











We all had dinner at the Dawson Daily Diner which is next door to the RV park. The people who had the chicken and/or ribs had a good dinner; however, I'd ordered the Pepper Steak and it was tough as nails.

On Sunday, Bill, Gisela, Earl, and I started our tour of Dawson City by going to the top of the Dome, a hill overlooking the city perched on the banks of the Yukon River.

Yukon River:

Dawson City:











We then went by Jack London's cabin and the Jack London Interpretive Centre next door. The museum has a collection of photos tracing London's journey to the Klondike during the Gold Rush. We stayed to listen to a man give a talk about London and his days in Dawson City.

Originally, Jack London's cabin was located on the North Fort of Henderson Creek, south of Dawson City. The cabin was abandoned after the gold rush and re-discovered by trappers in 1936 who noted London's signature on the back wall. Two replicas were made from the original logs -- one is at the interpretive site we visited and the other is at Jack London Square in Oakland, California.

After seeing London's cabin, we walk a few short blocks to see Robert Service's cabin. We were too early to hear anyone speak about Service who was known as the "Bard of the Klondike."

Jack London's cabin:

Robert Service's cabin:











We had lunch downtown at the River West Cappuccino and Bistro and then walked around town going into several shops and buying souvenirs. Most of the buildings in town are either original or replicas of buildings from the Gold Rush days.

Quilt in the Visitor's Center:

Downtown Dawson City:











The Bunkhouse:











In the evening, we all had dinner at Klondike Kate's where we had excellent food. After dinner, we went to the Gaslight Follies at the Palace Grand Theatre where we watched a funny play.

Palace Grand Theatre:

The cast:











On Monday, Bill, Gisela, Earl, and I drove about 57 miles up the Dempster Highway. Someone had told us that the first 50 miles of the Dempster was a good road (it's gravel) and had great scenery. He wasn't lying -- the scenery was absolutely awesome, some of the most beautiful we've seen so far.

Ogilvie Mountains & Klondike River:

More views of the Ogilvie Mountains:











Note that, in the left-hand picture, the white on the river is not the reflection of the sun, but, rather, ice sheets which have not yet melted. They were quite thick.

Tombstone Mountain
(needle-like peak at center of picture)











Coming back, we got a rock ding on our windshield from a passing freight truck that was really hauling *$$ down the road. Fortunately, we were able to get it repaired at a reasonable price when we got back into town.

"Shrimpy Trees"
(Black Spruce)











In the evening, we went back downtown and spent an enjoyable hour listening to Tom Byrne tell about the life of Robert Service and recite some of his poetry, including The Cremation of Sam McGee. Afterward, we went to Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall for drinks and their show. During one of the numbers, the "girls" came down into the audience and picked several men to do a skit with them. One of the men they chose was Kirk...we had lots of fun watching him up on the stage making a fool of himself along with the other three men!

The gambling hall:

Diamond Tooth Gertie:











The show:

ALASKA TRIP, PART 5

On Monday, June 11, we drove 102 miles to the Hi Country RV Park in Whitehorse, Yukon. After being on the go for several days, we decided to spend a couple of days here. Gisela, Bill, and I went into town for haircuts shortly after we arrived.

On Tuesday, Earl and I went to the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre. The center traces the Ice Age in Yukon, which, unlike the rest of Canada, was ice-free. Displays at the center trace the science and myth of the Ice Age subcontinent of Beringia, formed when the sea levels dropped during the Ice Age. Artifacts include a cast of the largest woolly mammoth skeleton ever recovered.

We also went to the Yukon Transportation Museum which features exhibits on all forms of transportation in the North. Displays include a full-size replica of the Queen of the Yukon Ryan monoplane (sister ship to Lindbergh's Spirit of St. Louis), Alaska Highway vintage vehicles, dogsleds, and stagecoaches. Also featured are the bush pilots of the North.

On Wednesday, June 13, we drove only 21 miles to Takhini Hot Springs to soak in the springs. It felt really good to soak in the hot water!

Thursday morning we left Takhini Hot Springs and moved 151 miles up the road to Minto Resorts RV Park in Minto, Yukon. Along the way, we stopped at the Boreal Fire Interpretive Site. There was a major forest fire in this area in the summer of 1998 and we drove through mile after mile of burn area.

Burned area:











We also stopped at the remains of the Montague House, a typical early-day roadhouse on the stagecoach route between Whitehorse and Dawson City.

Remains of the Montague House:

Wild rose:











We stopped in Carmacks to have lunch and went by the bank to exchange some more U.S. money to Canadian money. The current exchange rate really makes traveling in Canada a boon to Americans...it's currently running about $1.51 to $1.54, which means for every U.S. dollar, you get $1.51 to $1.54 in Canadian money. The place where we exchanged the money is a bank on Tuesday and Thursday...on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, it's a post office!

Yukon River:











Big River Enterprises in Minto offers river trips to historic Fort Selkirk which we decided to do on Friday.

Fort Selkirk, 25 river miles from Minto, was established in 1848 for the Hudson's Bay Company and was occupied sporadically by traders, missionaries and the RCMP until the 1950's. It was quite cold in the morning, so we were bundled up for the trip. We saw some Dall Sheep high up on the rocky ledges of the mountains and a bald eagle nest with an eagle sitting on the nest. By the time we made the boat trip back to the RV park, the sun had come out and the weather had warmed up, so the return trip wasn't as uncomfortable as the trip there.

Our boat:

Dall Sheep
(white spot, lower center)











Fort Selkirk:

Catholic church:











Indian Graveyard:

Anglican church:











Earl in front of one of Selkirk's buildings:











After the boat trip, Bill barbecued brats, but didn't get them quite done before a torrential rain storm was upon us. He finished barbecuing the brats under the front of the fifth wheel and we all had dinner inside Bill and Gisela's RV.

The mosquitoes have been pretty thick on this trip and they were especially so at the Minto RV park. Poor Maxx had to pretty much stay inside except to go potty, otherwise the mosquitoes would have eaten him alive. We spray ourselves down with Off! and build a fire to try to keep them at bay when we're outside. I have found a great remedy once we do get a bite -- meat tenderizer (plain, not flavored). Just make a paste, put it on the bite, and let it set until the paste dries. You have to do this soon after being bitten, but there will be no more itching!

ALASKA TRIP, PART 4

On Sunday, June 10, we left Watson Lake and drove 174 miles to Mukluk Annie's Salmon Bake in Teslin, Yukon. Along the way, we stopped at the Rancheria Falls Recreation Site to have lunch and take the boardwalk trail through boreal forest to the falls. We got back to our rigs just before the rain started. It rained most of the way to Mukluk Annie's; however, it stopped before we arrived and the rest of the day turned out beautifully.

Rancheria Falls:














Fairy Slipper (?):

Driving in the rain:











The stop at Mukluk Annie's is a not-to-be-missed experience on the trip to Alaska. While there is paid camping here with power and water, there is free camping down by the lake which is where we parked. In the evening, Mukluk Annie's has a salmon bake (you can also order ribs, steaks, or pork chops if you don't like salmon) with an all-you-can-eat salad bar. With the salmon bake, customers can take advantage of a free RV wash and a nightly houseboat ride. When we were here in 1998, it was raining so we didn't take advantage of the houseboat ride; however, the weather was beautiful today so we went on the ride. It wasn't informative like the boat ride on Muncho Lake had been, but it was enjoyable nonetheless. In the morning, there is an all-you-can-eat blueberry pancake breakfast. The blueberry pancakes are delicious!

[Unfortunately, Annie retired (or died...I've heard various reports) and Mukluk Annie's is no more...they've apparently even chained off the entrance so people can't camp down by the lake. Hopefully, someone will take over the place and reopen it.]

Teslin River Bridge
(third longest water span on the Alaska Highway)











Teslin Lake and the Coast Mountains: